The folks at KFS mount their FF

The folks at KFS mount their FF’s in the flat, tackle box tray area, but I use the Plano tackle box, which fits perfectly in the tackle box tray and is secured by bungee. The only logical location left was to mount the FF in the forward cup holder.

Rather than drive around looking for all the bits and pieces I would need for this install and having decided to power the FF with rechargeable AA batteries, I decided to purchase the FF Install Kit from Kayak Fishing Stuff. This kit cost approx. $80 and contained the following:

· Block of 1” closed cell foam with adhesive backing for mounting the transducer

After some e-mail conversations with the KFS staff, I also ordered a Micro RAM electronics mount ($40) which contains a 1” ball. For those that also have the Scotty mount on the indented location on the foredeck, there is a RAM ball that fits into the Scotty mount, but it is a 1.5” ball and will not accept the Micro RAM mount – it will take a RAM tube rod holder and the generic RAM electronics mount and any RAM product that uses a 1.5” ball, but if you use the 1.5” ball you will have to fabricate a plate to marry the mount to the FF. This was my first RAM mount – I had been using all Scotty products before and I will say that I like the RAM – it is sturdy (aluminum and hard plastic), very adaptable and easy to install.

If you have been doing the math, this install is not the cheapest way to install a fish finder. The kit and mount cost as much as the unit. But it is a relatively simple way to do it – the AA battery pack is lightweight and should run the FF for at least two or three trips before they need to be recharged.

Figure 1 - KFS’s FF Install kit

Fig. 2 - MicroRAM Mount

The MicroRAM mount fits the Eagle and Cuda FF’s perfectly. Lastly, I ordered some Lexel since everyone who uses is happy with the results, even though I have been using Marine Goop for adhesive / sealant. OK, I have all the parts, time to start drilling…

The first step was to mount the transducer. I decided to place it as close to the center of the yak as was possible, so I placed it under the console. I traced the outline of the transducer body on the foam and cut out the outline (Figure 3). I sanded the spot to make sure the Lexel would adhere well, removed the adhesive backing and stuck it down (Figure 4). I did not use Lexel, because the next step will be to glue the transducer in the foam and there will be plenty of adhesive to hold the foam down. In hindsight, I would also use adhesive on the foam.

The next step is probably the most critical in the entire install – gluing the transducer in place and ensuring there is good contact with the hull and there are no air bubbles in the adhesive. If there are any bubbles, the FF will not shoot through the hull well and your sonar image will be poor. I got a good grip on the tube of Lexel, stuck the nozzle into the foam outline and squeezed a steady bead (glob?) of adhesive. It is really not possible to use too much adhesive here, but bubbles are bad! Another method is to apply the adhesive directly to the transducer, then press it firmly into the foam cut-out.

With the transducer curing, it was time to install the RAM mount. I placed the RAM ball in the cup holder and found that by placing it offset to the right edge of the cup holder, I could still get my fingers in to adjust the RAM Mount knob. This was pretty straightforward – dry fit the RAM ball, mark the holes, drill small pilot holes, recheck that they lined up with the ball and then drill the bolt holes. I used plenty of Goop in the bolt holes and also on the bottom of the RAM Ball – I wanted to make sure there was no where for water to leak inside the yak from the cup holder. See Figure 5 and 6 below:

Then I needed to run the transducer and power cables up through the hull to the fish-finder unit. I decided to route them through the front wall of the cup holder to keep the wires from interfering with the foot-wells. I drilled the hole using a 3/8” drill bit and gradually sanded it larger until the rubber plug fit securely. Cut 2 slits on each side of the rubber plug so that you can run the wires through the holes. I used Lexel in the cable holes in the plug and around the plug location. Dry fit the FF unit to make sure you have enough cabling.

The next step was connecting the wires coming from the 9V connector to the FF power wires. I had planned on just twisting them together, sealing with heat shrink tubing and coating with Goop, but I had some timely help in the form of Mike and Nathan to solder the wires together. There was an inline fuse in the install kit and we decided it was better to use it than leave it out. Wire the fuse to the two red power lines – the fuse is red so even the electrically challenged (yours truly) can’t mess it up. The connections were covered in heat shrink and I coated the connectors with Goop to seal it completely.

The next step was the rig a deck loop on the underside of the hatch cover to hang the dry bag containing the battery pack. The deck loop can be rigged anywhere inside the yak you prefer – I already had a deck loop on the top of the hatch cover so I used the existing screws to connect another deck loop on the underside of the hatch cover.

There is a slight problem with closing the dry bag completely with the power cables protruding from the bag – so I filed some round grooves in the hard plastic top (yellow pieces in the photo, to fit the cable. Now I can close the bag completely and it is very watertight.

We’re done! Here are some photos of the finished product. Note that there is room to adjust the mount without too much trouble and I can still use the Scotty mount in the front and the tackle tray is still clear.

I let the Lexel cure for a week and then water tested it in the pool – works great. Now to get it out on the water…